Upper Qeparo is one of the most atmospheric villages on the Albanian Riviera — a hilltop gem where time seems to stand still, and the echoes of history meet the serenity of the Ionian Sea. Perched above the coastal road between Himarë and Porto Palermo, this ancient stone settlement invites travelers to step into a living postcard of old Albania, where every narrow alleyway and weathered archway tells a story centuries in the making.
Unlike its younger seaside counterpart, Lower Qeparo, which thrives with modern hotels and beach cafés, Upper Qeparo (also known as Old Qeparo) preserves the charm of an untouched era. Here, life moves at a gentle pace. Elderly villagers still sit on stone benches greeting passersby, and the scent of wild herbs fills the mountain air.
For travelers seeking authenticity, Upper Qeparo offers something rare — an unspoiled glimpse of Albania’s rural heritage, only minutes away from turquoise beaches. You can wander through cobblestone lanes, photograph abandoned yet poetic stone houses, or relax on a terrace overlooking the Ionian coast.
Through AlbaniaTurism.com, visitors can experience the best of both worlds — the cultural richness of Upper Qeparo and the coastal pleasures of the Albanian Riviera. Whether you’re planning a romantic escape, a photography retreat, or a cultural discovery tour, this guide will show you why Upper Qeparo deserves a top spot on your travel list.
Upper Qeparo Village History – A Journey Back in Time
Upper Qeparo village history
To understand the soul of Upper Qeparo, you must begin with its history — a story as enduring as the limestone cliffs that cradle it. The village traces its origins back to the Illyrian tribes who once inhabited the region over two thousand years ago. Over centuries, Upper Qeparo developed as a fortified settlement, strategically placed to watch over the Ionian coast and protect its people from pirates and invaders.
During the medieval and Ottoman periods, the village grew into a close-knit community of farmers, shepherds, and craftsmen. Its architecture reflects this resilience — massive stone houses with arched gateways, red-tiled roofs, and wooden balconies designed to withstand both time and turmoil. Walking through its quiet alleys today feels like entering a museum without walls.
When Albania’s population began shifting toward the coast in the mid-20th century, many families left Upper Qeparo for easier access to the sea and modern infrastructure. The once-bustling hilltop village slowly fell into a semi-abandoned state. Yet that same isolation preserved its soul. Today, travelers and restoration enthusiasts are breathing new life into the village, turning old homes into charming guesthouses and cafés while keeping its authentic feel intact.
What is Upper Qeparo?
Upper Qeparo, also called “Old Qeparo,” is the original settlement of the area — a hillside village located about 450 meters above sea level, overlooking Lower Qeparo and the Ionian coast. Unlike the modern beach area below, Upper Qeparo remains an authentic Albanian mountain village. Its narrow cobbled streets, ancient olive trees, and panoramic views make it a favorite among travelers seeking peace, culture, and tradition.
Traditional Albanian architecture in Upper Qeparo
One of the most captivating aspects of Upper Qeparo is its traditional Albanian stone architecture. Each house was built by hand from local limestone, featuring thick walls for insulation and small windows for defense. The layout of the village follows the natural contours of the hill, with winding pathways connecting clusters of homes, small chapels, and central courtyards.
Look closely and you’ll see fine details — carved wooden doors, weathered balconies, and decorative stone arches that hint at the craftsmanship of past generations. Many of these homes are now being carefully restored, allowing visitors to stay overnight in rooms that once belonged to Albanian noble families.
Through heritage-based travel experiences organized by AlbaniaTurism.com, guests can explore these architectural treasures with local guides who share stories of ancestors, resilience, and the enduring beauty of Albanian culture.
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Old Qeparo vs Lower Qeparo – The Village Divided by Time
Old Qeparo vs Lower Qeparo
When travelers hear about Qeparo, they often don’t realize it’s actually two distinct villages: Upper Qeparo, known locally as Fshati i Vjetër (the Old Village), and Lower Qeparo, the newer settlement along the Ionian coast. While both share the same breathtaking backdrop of mountains and sea, their atmospheres couldn’t be more different — one whispers history, the other celebrates the modern Riviera lifestyle.
Upper Qeparo sits high on the hillside, built centuries ago for safety from invaders. It remains a tranquil retreat filled with ancient charm — stone paths, olive groves, and panoramic terraces overlooking the blue horizon. There’s no rush here, only the rhythm of the wind and the distant sound of church bells.
Lower Qeparo, on the other hand, lies right by the beach. It developed during the communist era and has since transformed into a small resort area filled with hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants catering to sun-seeking travelers. It’s ideal for swimming, water sports, and evening strolls along the promenade.
How is Upper Qeparo different from Lower Qeparo?
Here’s what sets them apart:
- Atmosphere: Upper Qeparo feels like a time capsule, while Lower Qeparo buzzes with beach activity.
- Architecture: The upper village preserves traditional stone houses; the lower one features modern coastal buildings.
- Experience: Upper Qeparo is for hikers, photographers, and cultural travelers; Lower Qeparo attracts families and beach lovers.
- Views: From Upper Qeparo, you can see the entire Ionian coastline — from Porto Palermo to Borsh — while Lower Qeparo offers direct access to the sea.
Many visitors choose to stay in Upper Qeparo for peace and history while taking short drives or hikes down to the beach. This perfect combination of mountain charm and seaside fun makes Qeparo a unique dual-destination village.
Through AlbaniaTurism.com, travelers can easily book combined stays — a few nights in Upper Qeparo’s stone guesthouses followed by relaxing days in Lower Qeparo’s coastal hotels. It’s the ideal way to experience both Albania’s past and present in one journey.
Things to Do in Upper Qeparo – Top Attractions and Experiences
Things to do in Upper Qeparo
Though small in size, Upper Qeparo offers a surprisingly rich variety of things to do — all centered on authenticity, nature, and local culture. Every stone house and winding path holds a story waiting to be uncovered, and for those who love slow travel, this village is an open-air museum with soul.
Start your exploration by walking through the maze of cobbled streets, where time has softened the edges of stone walls and vines creep through ancient courtyards. The Church of Saint Mary (Kisha e Shën Mërisë) is a must-visit, known for its frescoes and peaceful setting overlooking the valley. From there, climb higher to reach the village viewpoint, one of the most photogenic spots on the Albanian Riviera, where the blue Ionian Sea stretches endlessly below.
Other highlights include:
- Exploring abandoned homes — many still filled with traditional furniture and old olive presses.
- Meeting locals — friendly residents often invite travelers for a glass of homemade raki or olive oil tasting.
- Hiking trails — scenic routes connect Upper Qeparo to Lower Qeparo, Porto Palermo, and neighboring villages like Borsh.
- Photography and art — the combination of decaying beauty and sweeping coastal views attracts painters and photographers from all over Europe.
What are the top things to do in Upper Qeparo?
Here are some top-rated experiences, especially recommended for guests booking with AlbaniaTurism.com:
- 🏡 Cultural Walking Tour: Guided stroll through Upper Qeparo’s historic center with stories of local families, Ottoman history, and traditional crafts.
- 🌿 Olive & Raki Experience: Visit a local household to see centuries-old olive presses and taste homemade products.
- 📸 Photography Excursion: Capture sunrise light over the Ionian Sea from the village’s panoramic terraces.
- 🥾 Hike to Porto Palermo Castle: A scenic route descending through olive groves to Ali Pasha’s fortress and the turquoise bay below.
- 🍽️ Dinner in a Restored Stone House: Enjoy traditional dishes like fërgesë, stuffed peppers, and local cheese, prepared with fresh Riviera ingredients.
Each experience offers a glimpse into what makes Upper Qeparo special — a blend of nature, history, and heartfelt hospitality. Whether you come for a day or stay for a week, the magic of Upper Qeparo lies in its simplicity, reminding visitors that true beauty often hides in quiet, forgotten corners.
To make the most of your visit, book an Upper Qeparo experience through AlbaniaTurism.com, where local experts design personalized tours that blend culture, comfort, and connection.
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Visiting Upper Qeparo – Travel Tips and Getting There
Visiting Upper Qeparo: travel tips
Planning your visit to Upper Qeparo is part of the adventure. The village may seem remote, but reaching it is easy with the right guidance — and the journey itself offers some of the most spectacular views along the Albanian Riviera. Whether you’re driving, hiking, or joining a guided cultural tour, getting there is an experience you’ll never forget.
Upper Qeparo lies approximately 4 km above Lower Qeparo Beach, perched on the steep hillside overlooking the Ionian Sea. Most travelers arrive by car or as part of an organized day trip from Himarë, Saranda, or Porto Palermo. The village is well signposted from the coastal road, and the drive up, though narrow and winding, rewards you with breathtaking vistas of olive groves and shimmering coastline.
If you prefer a more active approach, consider hiking from Lower Qeparo. The walking trail connecting the two villages takes about 40–50 minutes uphill and offers panoramic views at every turn — perfect for photographers and nature lovers.
Travel tips for visiting Upper Qeparo:
- Bring comfortable walking shoes; the cobblestone alleys can be steep.
- Visit in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday heat.
- Bring cash (in Albanian lek), as many small shops or guesthouses don’t accept cards.
- Stay overnight to experience the village after sunset — when it becomes almost magical, with stars above and the sea glowing faintly below.
Through AlbaniaTurism.com, visitors can arrange private transfers, guided hikes, or photography tours to Upper Qeparo, all led by experienced local guides who know every hidden path and story behind the stones.
How to get to Upper Qeparo?
Getting to Upper Qeparo is straightforward if you plan your route:
- From Saranda (55 km / ~1.5 hours): Drive north along SH8, passing through Borsh and Qeparo Beach, then follow the signs up the hillside.
- From Himarë (14 km / 25 minutes): Head south on SH8 toward Porto Palermo, turn inland toward Qeparo, and follow the Upper Qeparo signs.
- From Tirana (220 km / ~5 hours): Take the coastal road SH4 and SH8, or arrange a private tour transfer with AlbaniaTurism.com for a comfortable scenic drive with stops along the way.
Public transport options are limited but possible — minibuses (furgons) from Saranda and Himarë stop in Lower Qeparo, from where you can take a taxi or walk up to the old village.
Once there, leave your car in the small parking area near the entrance and explore on foot. The narrow lanes are not car-friendly, and walking is the only way to truly experience the charm of this timeless place.
Upper Qeparo Accommodation – Stay in a Living Museum
Upper Qeparo accommodation
Staying in Upper Qeparo is like spending the night inside a storybook. The village offers a mix of lovingly restored stone guesthouses, cozy family-run inns, and boutique stays with panoramic terraces. Here, comfort meets authenticity — you’ll wake up to the sound of roosters, breathe mountain air scented with wild herbs, and sip your morning coffee while gazing at the Ionian Sea.
Unlike the busy beach resorts below, Upper Qeparo’s accommodations are intimate and personal. Many are housed in centuries-old stone homes that have been carefully renovated by local families using traditional techniques. The result is a charming blend of rustic design and modern amenities, where every room tells a story.
Popular options include:
- 🏠 Guesthouse Qeparo Village: A family-run retreat with handmade furniture, organic breakfast, and a terrace overlooking the valley.
- 🌿 Villa Old Stone: Beautifully restored villa with stone walls, olive garden, and authentic Albanian décor.
- 🌅 Hotel Old Town Qeparo: Offers modern comfort inside a traditional setting, ideal for couples and photographers.
Through AlbaniaTurism.com, you can book handpicked accommodations that meet every traveler’s needs — from budget-friendly rooms to exclusive villas for small groups. Each property is verified for authenticity, hospitality, and scenic views.
What accommodation options are available in Upper Qeparo?
Travelers can choose from:
- Traditional guesthouses — perfect for cultural immersion and homemade breakfasts.
- Eco-lodges — sustainable stays focusing on local produce and solar energy.
- Private stone houses — ideal for couples or small families seeking privacy and rustic luxury.
By staying in Upper Qeparo, you do more than just rent a room — you support local families and help preserve Albania’s architectural heritage. Every booking contributes to keeping this ancient village alive and thriving.
So whether you dream of waking up to sea views from a stone terrace or enjoying raki under the stars, Upper Qeparo’s accommodations offer a rare kind of peace — the kind that modern life has almost forgotten. Book your stay easily through AlbaniaTurism.com, where authentic hospitality meets expert travel planning.
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Upper Qeparo Restaurants and Local Cuisine
Upper Qeparo restaurants
One of the greatest joys of visiting Upper Qeparo is tasting the authentic flavors of traditional Albanian cuisine in a setting that feels entirely timeless. Unlike the busy seaside restaurants below, dining in the old village is a slow and soulful experience — often shared with locals in family-run taverns or private courtyards surrounded by olive trees.
The food here reflects the heart of the Albanian Riviera: simple, fresh, and full of Mediterranean character. Most ingredients come straight from nearby farms — olives, herbs, goat cheese, honey, and vegetables grown on the mountain slopes. Meals are cooked with the same care and patience passed down through generations.
Typical dishes you’ll find in Upper Qeparo include:
- 🫒 Fërgesë – a warm, creamy mix of peppers, tomatoes, and cottage cheese.
- 🧀 Djathë i bardhë – local white cheese served with homemade bread and olives.
- 🐟 Grilled fish and seafood – caught daily from the Ionian Sea and seasoned with lemon and olive oil.
- 🥘 Tave kosi – baked lamb and yogurt casserole, a national favorite.
- 🍶 Homemade raki – the traditional Albanian grape spirit, often offered as a friendly toast.
Dining here isn’t just about food — it’s about connection. You might share stories with the host, watch them prepare your meal, or be invited to taste olive oil pressed from their family’s trees.
Are there good places to eat in Upper Qeparo?
Yes — and while there are only a few, each offers a memorable experience:
- Taverna Old Village: A small family-run eatery with views of the valley, serving grilled meats, fërgesë, and seasonal salads.
- Qeparo Stone House Kitchen: Offers homemade specialties and raki tasting in a restored stone home.
- Guesthouse Dining Tables: Many guesthouses offer farm-to-table dinners prepared by hosts — one of the most authentic ways to experience local cuisine.
For those who want to explore more dining options, Lower Qeparo and Porto Palermo offer seaside restaurants specializing in seafood and fresh pasta. AlbaniaTurism.com can help you combine a traditional dinner in Upper Qeparo with a beach lunch or winery visit nearby, creating a perfect culinary journey along the Riviera.
If you love discovering authentic food experiences, check out the Traditional Albanian Food Guide for more dishes to try during your trip.
Albanian Riviera Hidden Gems – Why Upper Qeparo Deserves a Spot on Your Itinerary
Albanian Riviera hidden gems
The Albanian Riviera is famous for its beaches and nightlife, but its most unforgettable treasures lie off the main road — in quiet places like Upper Qeparo, where the true spirit of Albania still lives. Far from the crowds of Dhërmi or Ksamil, Upper Qeparo offers the kind of authenticity that travelers crave yet rarely find.
This hilltop village is the perfect base to explore the hidden gems of the Riviera, from ancient castles to secret coves and lush hiking trails. Its central location between Himarë and Borsh makes it easy to explore the coast while enjoying peaceful evenings above the sea.
Nearby attractions include:
- 🏰 Porto Palermo Castle – the triangular fortress built by Ali Pasha, just 10 minutes away by car.
- 💧 Borsh Waterfall and Castle – a scenic spot combining history, nature, and cool mountain air.
- 🏖️ Qeparo Beach – quiet, turquoise waters and smooth pebbles below the old village.
- 🌄 Pilur Village and Himarë Highlands – another traditional stone village with panoramic views and authentic cuisine.
Is Upper Qeparo a good base for Albanian Riviera visits?
Absolutely. Upper Qeparo is a hidden gem for travelers who want both tranquility and access. From here, you can easily reach major Riviera destinations while escaping the crowds at night. It’s also one of the safest and most scenic places to stay, offering an elevated view over the coastline and a deeper connection to Albanian culture.
When you stay in Upper Qeparo, you get the best of all worlds:
- Proximity to the most beautiful beaches of southern Albania.
- Authentic charm that modern resorts can’t replicate.
- Cooler climate and peaceful atmosphere ideal for relaxation.
- Access to cultural tours arranged by AlbaniaTurism.com — from Riviera hiking to local food experiences.
Many travelers describe Upper Qeparo as the “soul of the Riviera” — a place that captures the past and present of Albania in perfect harmony. It’s not just a stop on your itinerary; it’s a destination that changes the way you experience the entire coastline.
With AlbaniaTurism.com, you can plan tailor-made routes combining Upper Qeparo, Porto Palermo, and Himarë — a journey filled with history, sea views, and heartfelt hospitality.
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