Peaks of the Balkans (12 days)

A boat ride on Lake Koman and warm-up walk in Valbona NP

⟺ 7 km ▲ 250 m ▼ 50 m ⧗ 3:30 h

An early start is followed by a scenic drive through the Drin Gorges to the Komani Lake (58km/2h). The picturesque reservoir loops similar to a Norwegian fjord through sheer rock walls and is the most attractive route into the Albanian Alps. You're in for a surprise by the peculiar ferry, which stops several times to pick up talkative locals from remote villages before arriving at Fierze (46 km/3h). By car you continue further into the highlands of the Valbona National Park, stopping for a light lunch in the small-city Bajram Curri. In the early afternoon, you reach the Valbona Valley and it’s tower-houses made of stone. The warm-up walk follows a crystal clear stream through ancient beech forests, speckled with the sweetest wild strawberries. Along the way, the brave will stop for a swimming break at the ice-cold river or a secluded pond. The jagged peaks towering high above you give itchy feet for tomorrow's trek into the highlands. Tonight, you enjoy a delicious, hearty dinner and a well-earned rest after this impression-packed introduction to the Accursed Mountains.  

Across the Persllopi Pass or through the Kollata Gorge to Cerem

⟺ 14 km ▲ 1,200 m ▼ 950 m ⧗ 8:00 h

Refreshed, fed and provided with a lunch pack, you tackle the first and one of the longest ascents of the trek vigorously. Winding up your way to the mountain side, you are rewarded with views of the highest peaks of the Albanian Alps. Past the pastures, you reach a treeless alpine valley, where surrounded by rock, the solitary mountains are all yours. The Persllopi Pass (2.039 m) marks today’s highest point and the border with Montenegro is at the country's highest peak, Mt. Kollata (2.534 m). Past a unique, so-called wind cave and through a karst labyrinth that requires sure-footedness, you return to Albania, face some of the most spectacular panoramas and meet shepherds on the way to the rather isolated village Cerem. Without a mobile phone signal or electricity, it remains the last outpost before the true wilderness starts. The hot, home-cooked meals, the warm shower and the hospitality of the hosts makes up for the small lack of comfort. If the weather doesn't permit crossing the pass, you can walk a shorter route through the Mt. Kollata Canyon to reach the simple guesthouse (no electricity).

Eastern alps and seasonal life on the summer pastures of Doberdol

⟺ 16 km ▲ 1,250 m ▼ 650 m ⧗ 7:00 h

The hike towards the high-lying border triangle takes you across flower carpets and temporarily into former Yugoslavia territory. Along the way, you can enjoy forest fruits, admire plant life and the breathtaking views of Mt. Kolata (2.534 m). Reaching the rim of the deep cut river canyon and following the high route through a conifer forest, you notice just how much the relief changes between the Western and Eastern Alps. Slopes are speckled with alpine pastures, you can rest in one of them and meet the herdsmen over coffee and raki. In the glacial-shaped valley of Doberdol (1.750 m), animals roam the grazing grounds freely and time appears frozen. Locals still live in harmony with nature, as humankind did many years ago. This archaic place helps reset the inner compass and will surely ground your soul. In the simple shepherd's huts, you relinquish comfort for one night, in return for warm hospitality. The family prepares the meals, and you learn more about the seasonal lifestyle of the shepherds at the bonfire.

Across the border into Kosovo’s "Bjeshket e Namuna" NP

⟺ 18 km ▲ 825 m ▼ 1,100 m ⧗ 7:45 h

Wishing farewell to the hosts, you climb out of the valley towards Mt. Tromedja/Trekufiri (2.366 m), as the huts and herds of Doberdol below become smaller by each step. On the top, the borders of three countries merge in sweeping vistas of the solitary borderlands. To the left lies the evergreen Babino Polje of Montenegro, and to the right, Kosovo’s highest peak Mt. Gjeravica (2.656 m) abruptly dives from the heights of the Dinaric Alps into the Dukagjin Plain. The long caravan path at the edge of the “Bjeshket e Namuna” National Park crisscrosses the border ridge below the 2,500 m high peaks of Mt. Marijash and Mt. Rops, affording panoramic views into both Kosovo and Montenegro. You cross the Roshkodoli Pass and start your descent to Milishevc, a remote summer village located in the midst of a peaceful pine forest. The simple mountain huts made of wood, typical for the country’s alpine villages, provide refreshments, hot meals, comfort, and a well-deserved rest after a long day

On top of Mt. Lumbardhi and deep down the Rugova Gorge

⟺ 14 km ▲ 525 m ▼ 1,200 m ⧗ 6:00 h

The Lumbardhi Ridge (2.130 m) is the last obstacle that separates Milishevc from the Rugova Gorge. The barely visible route out of the alps and up to the crest is rewarded with good views of the surrounding mountains. Hidden behind the ridge, extensive grazing grounds surround the artesian pond at the foot of Mt. Red Rock (Guri i Kuq, 2.522m). Most pastoral grounds were abandoned after the Kosovo war or are now used only for recreational purposes, the Lumbardhi Alps is one of the few exceptions where livestock is still tended to on a greater scale. Beyond this sea of grass, the mountain plunges deep down into the Rugova Gorge. Across, the ridge of Hajla promises us a panoramic hike tomorrow. One at times very steep trail leads through a gully and old grown woods to the bottom of the canyon. Here you stop for drinks and weather allowing, for a swim. At the end of the day, a short transfer on a rugged road takes you to the friendly hosts in Reka e Allages. Enjoy a cold beer at sunset with magnificent views over Guri i Kuq across, while a hearty dinner is prepared.

Blueberries, rare alpine plants and the Kosovo conflict's living past

⟺ 15 km ▲ 1,150 m ▼ 1,300 m ⧗ 8:00 h

Across meadows and along the blueberry trail, you quickly ascend in a dense pine forest to the base of Mt. Hajla (2.403 m). Multiple very steep and partly trail-less routes lead to the peak that forms the border with Montenegro. From the top of the 300 m high cliff, views reach far into the neighboring country and city Rozaje. The ascent is optional, your guide will help you evaluate if you should join. You may opt out to keep the day short (<5h). Daydream, read your book, or admire the surrounding flora instead. Chances to spot rare plants like Edelweiss or the endemic Albanian Lily are nowhere as high as here! From the base, the walk continues on high altitude along a now unused road, to the highest of the thirteen Rugova villages, Pepaj. Walking through a rocky gully, circled by tall pines, you get a few chances to catch a glimpse over the scenic hamlet of Drelaj. The village is more populated and seems closer to civilization than your previous overnight stays. At the accommodation, you will be delighted by another yummy dinner, as the family prepares the campfire in the garden.

Past alpine lakes over the highest point of the Peaks of the Balkans

⟺ 15 km ▲ 1,150 m ▼ 1,050 m ⧗ 7:30 h

After a 30-min transfer to the trailhead, the route climbs through an idyllic pine forest to the big emerald lake of Liqenat (1.850 m). At its banks prospers a wide range of alpine flora, and above awaits the long ascent to the highest point of the Peaks of the Balkans route, the Jelenka Pass (2.272 m). Caravans have used this route since ancient times to move silver and other goods to and from the coast - nowadays it’s almost invisible. The top invites for a rest stop, with stunning views of the Plav, Theth and Valbona mountains. Behind, shepherds from Roshkodol collect berries, and you’re flanked by peaks above 2.500 m. The walk to Ravno Brdo Pass (2.178 m) is leveled, offers dreamy walking and good views. The last pass proves to be a magnificent viewpoint towards the rugged peaks ahead and into the lush green valley of Babino Polje below. Descending through the grassy grounds, you pass a hut or two before reaching the scattered settlement. Here, you stay at the rim of the wilderness, at simple but welcoming mountain huts, where the friendly hosts introduce you to the highlights of traditional Montenegrin home-cooking.

Ridge hike to the double peaks of Popadija & Taljanka (2.056m)

⟺ 12 km ▲ 950 m ▼ 950 m ⧗ 6:30 h

The Grbaja Valley is one of the most awe-inspiring in the Balkans. On a morning transfer, you shuttle into the narrow valley wedged between the karst towers of Karanfili (2.461 m). Arguably one of the most rugged and dramatic peaks in the Prokletije, it’s a dream of many climbers. Ascending through a shaded fairy-tale beech forest, you reach an alpine meadow encompassed by multiple peaks. The connected ridge trail lets you enjoy a series of panoramic viewpoints, culminating in the highest two peaks of Popadija and Taljanka (2.056 m). From here, the hostile walls seem almost within reach, and views gaze across the border into the Kelmend region of Albania. From the top of the spine, a steep descent takes you back onto the shaded forest path, where the balloon hike closes. Once back down at the valley floor, you can choose one of the beer gardens to enjoy a cold drink. On a transfer, you continue to the family-run guesthouse in Vusanje. Here, the nearby Grla Waterfall invites for an evening stroll, though the views from the veranda over the Accursed Mountains are equally beautiful.

The caravan route to Albania with optional climb of Mt.Arapi (2.217m)

⟺ 11 km ▲ 650 m ▼ 900 m ⧗ 6:45 h

Traveling up the Ropojana Valley, formed by a 26 km long glacier, you visit the pupil-shaped karst spring on the way, where an ice-cold river is born from the melting snow high up in the mountains. At the trailhead, a weathered border stone is the only reminder of the once tightly sealed borders of former Communist Albania. The mountain-framed corridor takes you past a dry lake, shepherd huts, and an abandoned military post into the heart of the Albanian Alps. Here, the canine tooth of Mt. Arapi (2.217m) stands high above the Thethi National Park, forming the highest wall in the Balkans. Arriving at Peja Pass (1.711 m), your guide determines whether the summit can be tackled. The ones who take a pass on the challenging peak, suitable for experienced and sure-footed hikers only, rest at the pass or start descending with the horsemen. A steep, well-trodden caravan path leads to the local watering hole, followed by a short ride to a guesthouse in the center of the lively, iconic village of the Albanian alps.

Learn about the Kanun & blood feud, hike via the Grunas waterfall to Nderlys

⟺ 16 km ▲ 225 m ▼ 500 m ⧗ 5:30 h

Only a walk through the village and its lush green fields reveals the full extent of Theth. Visit its iconic church and dive at the lock-in tower into the history of the "Kanun". The "kulla" offered protection to those affected by the Blood Feud and is the right place to learn about the former highland law code; it also marks the trailhead to Nderlysaj. Following water channels, the path ascends to the Grunas Waterfall, drops again to a cliff above the river and the 50 m deep Grunas Canyon. A well-worn bridle path leads you along the river downstream to Nderlysaj. Arriving there in the hot midday sun, the Kaprea river and it’s stone pools invite for a swim. The scenic transfer across the Thorja Pass (1.630 m) into the Valley of Boge and along the Lake of Shkodra (2 h) takes you back to the hotel of the first night in Shkodra. At night it's time to celebrate the eventful trek over a somewhat different atmosphere than that of the previous days. With all the party in mind, please also doublecheck tomorrow's departure details.

Departure day from Shkodra

Group transfer to TIA/Tirana, 10:00 AM

After breakfast, there’s time for a walk in the pedestrian area and for any last-minute souvenir shopping fever. You can join the group transfer to Tirana (airport or city). For the ones wishing to extend their travels, you can explore the town, head to the nearby beaches in Velipoja and Ulcinj (Montenegro), experience Albania's modern side in the capital Tirana or spend your beach holidays at the Albanian Riviera (5-7 h travel time). Thank you for joining us on this adventure, we hope you had a great time and hope it’s not your last visit to the country of warm hospitality, countless mountains and sun-kissed beaches. Like to stay longer? Ask us about discounts (up to 10%) on combined trips, transfers and extension nights in Tirana, Shkodra or elsewhere - plenty to explore that merits a full day in each town.